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Jagged cliffs and hidden beaches, pastel-colored villages and houses nestled between the rocks, medieval monasteries and terraces overlooking the infinite

Breathtaking views

Amalfi Coast: terraces with a view

Amalfi Coast:
terraces with a view

TRADITIONAL FOOD SPECIALTIES: Cetara’s anchovies, spaghetti with “colatura di alici” (anchovy drippings), PGI Amalfi Coast lemon, PGI goat cheese from Monti Lattari, Amalfi’s Limoncello liqueur, Delizia al Limone (lemon delight), Concerto liqueur.

WINES: Aglianico, Biancolella, Falanghina, Fenile, Piedirosso, Ginestra, Pepella, Ripolo, Sciascinoso, Tintore, Tronto, Serpentaria

MUST DO’S: a hike on the Path of the Gods, Amalfi’s Cathedral, Ravello, a cocktail in Positano at sunset, Vietri sul Mare’s ceramic shops, a swim in Fiordo di Furore.

RECOMMENDED READS:

  • The House in Amalfi, by Elizabeth Adler
  • One Italian Summer, by Rebecca Serle
  • The Chocolatier, by Jan Moran
cartina costiera amalfitana culla di civiltà

Amalfi Coast

Amalfi Coast lies between Sorrento’s peninsula and Cilento’s coast. It is bordered to the west by Positano, to the east by Vietri sul Mare and is named after the city of Amalfi, the first geographical and historical centre and maritime Republic in the 9th century, together with Genoa, Pisa and Venice.

Costiera amalfitana Positano foto Pixabay gf6f5ce213_1920
Positano, Costiera amalfitana, foto Pixabay

Where to go

The coastline is made of characteristic steep cliffs, small beaches and hidden coves. In this land of magnificent nature, breathtaking views and crystalline sea, human intelligence has taken advantage of every single inch of livable space shaping the landscape into a painting.

Further to the most well-known towns, off the beaten path villages in the hills such as Albori and Raito, hamlets of Vietri sul Mare are worth a visit, as well as the tiny laid-back fishing villages such as Cetara, renowned for the famous “colatura”(anchovy drippings ) a local specialty that dates to Roman times.

Amalfi Coast, view from Ravello, photo Pixabay

Hiking trails in Amalfi Coast

The incredible landscape heritage is deeply related to a wise culinary tradition. And then the beaches, the caves, the valleys, the terraces and the landscapes to be explored along the hiking routes in the Monti Lattari National Park, along the Path of the Gods, referred to the Odyssey’s tale when Ulysses tied himself to the mast of the ship to resist the song of the Sirens, the Lemon Trail between Maiori and Minori, or the Formichelle Trail from Tramonti to Maiori.

Hiking trails, Amalfi Coast , Pixabay

BEST TIME TO GO: The best time is undoubtedly from April to June, when spring blows up and you can enjoy a swim. July and August are overcrowded and the heat can be distressing.

HOW TO GET THERE: The nearest airport is Naples Capodichino (64 km to Amalfi). Naples, Sorrento and Salerno are the main connection towns. Public buses (SITA) run all year round and in the summer there are ferries and hydrofoils. Positano is the first town you reach when driving from the north, further on you reach Praiano, Amalfi, Minori, Maiori, Cetara and Vietri sul Mare. There is just one train station in Vietri sul Mare connected with Naples and Salerno.

HOW TO GET AROUND: Avoid driving. The only coastal road has one single narrow lane in each direction and tight curves overlooking the sea. On weekends and in the summer traffic jams are recurring. There is a lack of parking places and the few existing ones are expensive.

Towns are connected by a public bus service although timetables are often disregarded due to to the heavy traffic. During the summer there are boat services connecting all the Amalfi Coast towns with Naples, Salerno, Sorrento, Capri and Ischia.

Hiring a scooter can be an alternative allowing to get around easily and without restrictions.

WHERE TO STAY: Positano for a true dream experience (but could turn out to be uncomfortable for disabled people due to its stairs and steep alleys), Praiano and Agerola for hiking, Atrani for beach lovers, Ravello for the incomparable views, Vietri sul Mare and its hilly hamlets for a more authentic experience off the beaten paths.

HOW LONG SHOULD I STAY: Distances are not significant but traffic hassles shouldn’t be underestimated. Two or three days are reasonable.

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My travel diaries...

Capri and Amalfi on a budget

Capri and Amalfi on a budget May 2022 Day 1 | Arrival in Sorrento, coach trip to Amalfi, Ravello and Positano Rome Termini. With the 8.00 a.m. high speed Frecciarossa train, at 9.15 a.m. we are at Naples' Central Station. At the station's newsstand we buy tickets for the Circumvesuviana train (single ride € 3.90) and go down to the -1 floor, in Piazza Garibaldi. The Circumvesuviana train is full of tourists heading to Pompeii and Herculaneum, we arrive in Sorrento in just over an hour. Since the 19th century, Sorrento has been a tourist destination with a strong link

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January 4, 2023