A bit of Brittany, a pinch of Normandy, Châteaux de la Loire and a taste of Paris
Summary
August 2015 – A fly & drive trip between Brittany, Normandy and the Loire Castles
Day 1 | Arrival in Paris and first night in Chartres (115km)
Day 2 | Stop in Vitré (226 km) and drive towards Trévron (93 km)
Day 3 | Visit to Dinan and boat trip on Rance river
Day 4 | Visit to Saint Malo (44km) and sunset at Mont Saint Michel (56km)
Day 6 | Visit to Josselin Castle (74 km) and arrival in Noyalo (60 km)
Day 7 | The Carnac stones (42 km) and afternoon in Vannes (32 km)
Day 8 | Visit to Concarneau (118 km) and Locronan (42 km)
August 2015 – A fly & drive trip between Brittany, Normandy and the Loire Castles
The idea of this trip to Brittany arose with our old university friends during a dinner organized for a wedding anniversary and was the first of many trips done together. In 2015, the group consisted of 6 adults and our 5 daughters aged between of 3 and 11.
Day 1 | Arrival in Paris and first night in Chartres (115km)
Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport. We take the car (www.rentalcars.com ) and drive towards Chartres where we’ll stop on our way to Brittany and spend the first night.
Chartres is absolutely worth a visit for its Gothic cathedral, among the most beautiful in Europe, and magnificent stained glass windows coloured with a most unique shade of blue, the blend still is unknown, so intense and brilliant as to be considered inimitable.
Summer evenings in Chartres are very lively, many events such as light shows and open-air concerts take place at this time of year.
Day 2 | Stop in Vitré (226 km) and drive towards Trévron (93 km)
After a short stop in Vitré, we keep on driving towards Trévron, near Dinan, in northern Brittany, where we’ll be based for the next 4 nights. On Gites de France website, we booked a bed&breakfast surrounded by a lush garden dominated by hydrangeas. Our group is large and we can all stay together, on different floors in this house.
Day 3 | Visit to Dinan and boat trip on Rance river
Dinan is one of the most charming Breton cities, plenty of art and history. Enclosed by almost 3 km of ramparts, this medieval city overlooking the Rance river bears witness to its wealthy past. Among the spots which shouldn’t be missed, the medieval center and its half-timbered houses, the Clock Tower, a walk along the ramparts and typical Rue du Jerzual and Rue du Petit Fort.
The weather is cool and rainy, but we are not discouraged, we walk to the small marina dotted with open-air restaurants, we rent a boat and go for a ride on the river Rance.
Day 4 | Visit to Saint Malo (44km) and sunset at Mont Saint Michel (56km)
Saint Malo is one of Brittany’s best known cities, birthplace of writer Francois René de Chateaubriand. Famous for being the city of corsairs, Saint Malo is a port city with high granite walls surrounding the medieval center. In the past it used to be a stronghold for corsairs (pirates recognized by the king).
We go for a walk along the 2 km long Ramparts where unique views of the bay open up.
The medieval center is very crowded, so we decide to spend some time on the beach watching the tide.
In the afternoon we continue our trip towards Mont Saint Michel, in Lower Normandy, one of the most interesting and fascinating places in the world. It’s a rocky islet, plenty of history and legends, with an imposing abbey devoted to Saint Michael the Archangel. Since the first church was consecrated in 709 it’s been attracting visitors and pilgrims from all over the world.
Sunset is the best time of the day at Mont Saint Michel and the least crowded, because of the unique play of light on the bay’s surface and on the prés salés (salted meadows). Mont Saint Michel is where the highest tides in continental Europe are found. In ancient times the tides have helped a lot to make the mountain unconquerable, being accessible only at low tide (by land) or at high tide (by sea).
Actually I did expect a more spiritual atmosphere at Mont Saint Michel. Overtourism affects this site and dampens its sacredness, the souvenir shops scattered along the way to the top make you feel like in an amusement park. I believe that magical places like this should be preserved with mass tourism limitations.
Day 5 | Cap Fréhel (48 km)
Cap Fréhel is one of the most impressive stretches of coast in Brittany and France.
Dominating the sea at over 70 metres high, the shale and pink sandstone cliffs of Cap Fréhel offer one of the most beautiful views of Brittany overlooked by one of the most powerful lighthouses, whose light is visible at a distance of over 100 km.
Day 6 | Visit to Josselin Castle (74 km) and arrival in Noyalo (60 km)
Today we move to the south coast of Brittany. We’ll be staying for 3 nights near Vannes. Along the way we stop at Josselin to visit the flamboyant Gothic castle, built in the early 11th century and rebuilt several times. Stronghold of the Rohan dynasty, who still live in the castle, it’s one of the most famous Breton castles and stands on a rocky outcrop along the Oust river.
Then we drive to Noyalo, near Vannes. We have booked some rooms in farmhouse run by a lovely sweet old lady who raises cows. The farmhouse is surrounded by blackberry bushes, to the delight of our girls who pick them in sacks.
Day 7 | The Carnac stones (42 km) and afternoon in Vannes (32 km)
Erected 6,000 years ago and scattered across the Breton countryside, the Carnac stones are among the largest megalithic complexes in the world. The site also includes the largest prehistoric menhir currently known, 20 meters long and weighing 300 tons. Many theories try to explain these monuments, their most probable function being associated with astronomy.
In the afternoon we go to Vannes, a delightful medieval city, with walls, fortified gates, winding streets and cobbled squares. Vannes is a lively town with many cafes, bistros, markets and a small harbour. The summer climate here, completely different from the north, suggests us to take a boat trip on the Gulf of Morbihan.
Day 8 | Visit to Concarneau (118 km) and Locronan (42 km)
Having survived centuries of wars and pirate raids, sheltered by ramparts and fortifications, former stronghold of Brittany, the fortified town of Concarneau has a very strong seafaring vocation. Along the docks of the harbour you can see fishing boats, shipyards, piers that welcome boats of all kinds, and departing regattas. The city is entirely facing the sea, the perfect place to indulge in a lunch based on the supreme local gastronomic specialty: oysters. Memorable. The lunch will recur in our stories as an experience to be handed down to the grandchildren.
In the afternoon we go to the small medieval village of Locronan, in Finistère, at the extreme tip of Brittany. Used as the location for many films, this village with blue granite houses and ancient lanes has preserved beautiful Renaissance and medieval residences and is recognized as one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Day 9 | Visit to Château de Chenonceau (340km)
Before returning to Paris we will make a detour to a gem of the Loire Valley. Considered as one of the most famous and romantic castles, Château de Chenonceau is one of the greatest demonstrations of Renaissance’s refinement and elegance. The richness of the decorations, the furnishings and the perfectly well-kept gardens are enthralling. I’ve never encountered such finesse, in any other palace I’ve visited.
Day 10 | A taste of Paris (236 km)
We leave for Paris very early in the morning and when we arrive we line up for the Eiffel Tower. Lucky day today, there’s is no wind so we can reach the top floor!
We have driven about 2000 km during our french holiday. It’s been a great trip that will remain in our memories.
Au revoir Paris, we’ll be back soon!
